How to Fix a Leaky or Dripping Faucet
Updated September 18, 2026
Can I do this myself?
DIY with precautions
Yes, this is a safe beginner repair as long as you shut off the water supply first and relieve the pressure. The main risks are flooding and damaging the finish, not injury.
A dripping faucet is one of the most common household problems, and one of the most satisfying to fix yourself. A single steady drip can waste thousands of litres of water a year, and the constant sound is hard to ignore. The good news: in most cases the cause is a small, inexpensive rubber or plastic part that has worn out.
How you fix it depends on the type of faucet you have. Older two-handle faucets usually use rubber washers that press against a seat (compression faucets). Most modern single-handle faucets use a replaceable cartridge, while some use a ceramic disc or a ball mechanism. This guide helps you identify yours and walks through the fix step by step.
Before you take anything apart, find out whether the water is dripping from the spout (an internal seal problem) or leaking around the handle or base (usually an O-ring). That tells you which part to replace.
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Signs of the problem
- Water drips from the spout even when the handle is fully off
- Water pools around the base of the faucet or under the handle
- The handle has to be forced tight to stop the drip
- Hot or cold side drips, but not both (two-handle faucets)
- A squealing or chattering sound when the faucet is turned on
- Mineral crust or green staining around the spout or handle
Common causes
Worn cartridge
Most commonIn single-handle faucets, the cartridge controls flow and temperature. Its seals wear over time and let water past. Replacing the cartridge is the most common fix for modern faucets.
Worn washer (compression faucets)
Most commonTwo-handle faucets with separate hot and cold taps press a rubber washer against a valve seat. When the washer hardens or tears, water seeps through and drips from the spout.
Damaged O-rings
Most commonO-rings seal the spout and the handle stem. If water leaks around the handle or the base of the spout rather than from the spout itself, a worn O-ring is the likely cause.
Corroded or pitted valve seat
SometimesThe seat is the surface the washer presses against. Mineral deposits or corrosion can leave it rough, so even a new washer can't seal. It can often be replaced or smoothed with a seat wrench.
Loose parts or high water pressure
Less commonA loose packing nut or retaining nut can let water escape around the handle. Very high household water pressure can also force water past seals that are otherwise fine.
Safety first: before you start
- Critical:Shut off both the hot and cold supply valves under the sink (turn clockwise). If there are none, shut off the main water valve.
- Critical:Open the faucet fully to release pressure and confirm no water comes out before removing any parts.
- Plug the sink drain with a stopper or rag so small screws and parts can't fall in.
- Let hot water cool first. Water and metal parts on the hot side can scald.
- Wear safety glasses when prying off decorative caps or using penetrating oil.
Tools & materials
Tools
- Adjustable wrench
- Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
- Allen (hex) key set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Old towel or rag
- Flashlight
- Soft cloth or masking tape (to protect the finish)
Materials
- Replacement cartridge, washer set or O-ring kit (matched to your faucet brand/model)
- Plumber's grease (silicone, safe for potable water)
- White vinegar (for soaking mineral deposits)
Step-by-step fix
- 1
Identify your faucet type
One handle that moves up/down and left/right usually means a cartridge, ball or ceramic disc faucet. Two separate handles that turn several full rotations usually mean a compression (washer) faucet. Look for a brand name on the faucet body or handle. It helps you buy the exact replacement part.
Tip: Take photos of the faucet from several angles before you start. They're useful at the hardware store and when reassembling.
- 2
Shut off the water and relieve pressure
Turn both supply valves under the sink clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet fully in all positions (hot and cold) until the flow stops completely. Leave it open.
Warning: If water keeps flowing after the valves are closed, a valve isn't sealing. Shut off the main water supply before continuing.
- 3
Plug the drain and lay out a towel
Close the drain stopper or stuff a rag in it. Lay a towel on the counter and place parts on it in the order you remove them, left to right. This makes reassembly foolproof.
- 4
Remove the handle
Pry off any decorative cap (often marked red/blue) with a thin flathead screwdriver wrapped in tape. Underneath is a screw: Phillips on most two-handle faucets, or a small hex (Allen) set screw, often on the underside or back of single-handle faucets. Remove it and lift the handle straight off.
Tip: If the handle is stuck from mineral buildup, apply a little white vinegar, wait 10 minutes, and wiggle gently. Don't hammer it.
- 5
Remove the retaining nut or clip
Unscrew the dome cap or bonnet nut with an adjustable wrench (protect the finish with a cloth). Cartridge faucets often have a U-shaped retaining clip. Pull it out with needle-nose pliers and keep it safe.
- 6
Pull out the cartridge or stem
Note which way the cartridge faces (many have a tab or 'HOT' marking), then pull it straight up. It may be snug, so grip with pliers and twist gently while lifting. On compression faucets, unscrew the stem counter-clockwise to reveal the washer held by a small brass screw.
Warning: Don't force a stuck cartridge with excessive leverage. You can crack the faucet body. Some brands sell an inexpensive cartridge puller tool.
- 7
Replace the worn part
Take the old cartridge, washer or O-rings to the store to match exactly. For compression faucets, replace the washer and the brass screw. For leaks around the handle or spout, roll off the old O-rings and fit new ones. Coat new O-rings and washers lightly with plumber's grease.
Tip: Buy a full rebuild kit for your faucet model if available. It's usually cheaper than buying parts separately.
- 8
Clean the valve body
With the cartridge or stem out, wipe the inside of the faucet body with a cloth. Remove mineral scale with a vinegar-soaked rag. Inspect the valve seat on compression faucets: if it's rough or pitted, replace it with a seat wrench or have it resurfaced.
- 9
Reassemble in reverse order
Insert the new cartridge facing the same direction as the old one, refit the retaining clip or nut, then the handle and screw. Tighten snugly but don't overtighten. Plastic parts crack and O-rings can pinch.
- 10
Restore water slowly and test
With the faucet in the off position, open the supply valves slowly. Check for leaks under the sink and around the handle. Run hot and cold for a minute to flush air and debris, then turn it off and watch the spout.
Stuck on a step?
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How to check it's fixed
- No drips from the spout for at least 10 minutes after turning the faucet off
- No water around the handle or base while the faucet is running
- Hot and cold both work and the handle moves smoothly
- No moisture at the supply valves or connections under the sink
When to stop and call a professional
- The supply valves under the sink won't close or are leaking themselves
- The faucet body is cracked or badly corroded
- Water is leaking inside the cabinet from the supply lines or drain, and you can't find the source
- You can't find replacement parts for an old or unbranded faucet (replacing the whole faucet may be simpler)
- Leaks continue after replacing the cartridge or washer (the valve seat or body may be damaged)
How to prevent it
- Don't overtighten handles. Turn them off gently. Excess force wears washers and cartridges faster.
- Clean aerators and handles every few months to prevent mineral buildup, especially in hard-water areas.
- Consider a water softener or whole-house filter if you have very hard water.
- Exercise under-sink supply valves once or twice a year so they don't seize.
Frequently asked questions
Can I fix a leaky faucet without turning off the water?
No. Opening the faucet body without shutting off the supply will release water under pressure and flood the area. Always close the under-sink valves (or the main) and confirm the flow has stopped first.
How do I know which cartridge to buy?
Take the old cartridge to a hardware store and match it, or look up your faucet's brand and model online. Many manufacturers list replacement parts by model number. Cartridges that look similar often aren't interchangeable.
Why is my faucet still dripping after replacing the washer?
On compression faucets the valve seat may be pitted, so the new washer can't seal. Replace or resurface the seat. On cartridge faucets, check that the cartridge is facing the right way and fully seated.
Is a dripping faucet an emergency?
Usually not. It wastes water but isn't dangerous. It becomes urgent if water is leaking into cabinets, near electrical outlets, or through a floor or ceiling. Then shut off the water and deal with it promptly.
Should I repair or replace the faucet?
If the faucet is in good condition and parts are available, repairing is quick and inexpensive. If it's very old, corroded, or leaks from the body, replacing the whole faucet may be the better long-term fix.
This guide is general information, not professional advice. Homes differ, so follow your product manuals and local codes. If anything looks different from what's described, or you feel unsure, stop and call a qualified professional. In an emergency, leave the area and call your local emergency number.
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