Washing Machine Shaking or Walking? How to Stop It
Updated September 18, 2026
Can I do this myself?
Safe to DIY
Yes, this is a safe DIY job. Leveling feet and balancing loads need no tools beyond a wrench and a spirit level. Just unplug the machine before tilting it, and get a helper for anything heavy.
A washing machine that thumps, rattles or creeps across the floor during the spin cycle is alarming, but the cause is usually simple. Washers spin their drums at high speed, and any imbalance, whether from the load, the feet or the floor, gets magnified into shaking you can feel through the room.
The most common culprits are an uneven load (a single heavy blanket or a pile of wet towels on one side), feet that aren’t level, or, on a brand-new machine, shipping bolts that were never removed. These are all quick fixes. Worn suspension parts and weak floors are less common but worth knowing about.
Work through the checks below from easiest to hardest. Most people find the problem in the first three steps.
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Signs of the problem
- Loud banging or thumping during the spin cycle
- The machine moves or walks away from its original spot
- Excessive vibration you can feel in the floor or nearby walls
- The machine stops mid-spin and shows an unbalanced-load code
- Rattling from the back or bottom of the machine
- A top-load drum that sits lower on one side when empty
Common causes
Unbalanced load
Most commonA single bulky item, or heavy wet items bunched on one side of the drum, throws the drum off-center at high speed. This is the most common reason for occasional shaking, especially with bedding, rugs and towels.
Uneven leveling feet
Most commonWashers have adjustable feet at the front (and sometimes the back). If one foot is shorter than the others, or its lock nut has loosened, the machine rocks on the diagonal and shakes more as speed increases.
Shipping bolts still installed
SometimesNew front loaders are delivered with bolts through the back panel that lock the drum in place for transport. If they’re left in, the drum can’t move on its suspension and the whole machine shakes violently from the very first spin.
Worn suspension parts
SometimesFront loaders use shock absorbers and springs; top loaders use suspension rods or springs. As these wear, the drum bounces and knocks against the cabinet. You may notice the empty drum sagging or moving too freely.
Soft or uneven floor
SometimesA washer on a flexible wooden floor, an uneven tile surface or a sloped balcony will vibrate more no matter how well it’s leveled. The floor itself flexes and amplifies the movement.
Safety first: before you start
- Critical:Stop the machine and unplug it before tilting it, reaching underneath or adjusting feet.
- Critical:Get a helper to tilt or move the washer. Never lift it alone or put your fingers under a raised edge without support.
- Protect the floor with cardboard or a mat before sliding the machine.
- Don’t sit or stand on a shaking washer to hold it down. It won’t fix the problem and you could be hurt.
- Keep children and pets away from a machine that’s walking during spin.
Tools & materials
Tools
- Spirit level (a phone level app works in a pinch)
- Adjustable wrench or open-ended spanner
- Socket wrench (for shipping bolts)
- Flashlight
- Piece of wood or a sturdy book (to prop the machine while adjusting)
Materials
- Anti-vibration pads or rubber washer feet cups
- Shipping bolt hole caps (usually supplied with the machine)
- Plywood board (for weak floors, if needed)
Step-by-step fix
- 1
Rebalance the load
Pause the cycle and open the machine once it’s safe to do so. Spread the clothes evenly around the drum. If you’re washing one heavy item, add a couple of towels to balance it, or wash bulky bedding on its own using a Bulky or Bedding cycle. Restart the spin and see if the shaking stops.
Tip: Don’t overload the drum. Clothes need room to move and settle evenly.
- 2
Check for shipping bolts on a new machine
If the washer is new or has just been moved, look at the back panel for three or four large bolts, often with plastic spacers. Unplug the machine, remove them with a socket wrench, pull out any spacers and press in the plastic caps that came with the machine. Your manual will show exactly where they are.
Tip: Keep the bolts in a labelled bag taped to the machine. You’ll need them if you move house.
- 3
Test for rocking
With the machine unplugged and empty, press down on each corner of the top in turn. If it rocks, one or more feet aren’t touching the floor properly. Place a spirit level on top, first front to back and then side to side, and note which way it leans.
- 4
Adjust the leveling feet
With a helper tilting the machine back slightly (or propping it on a block of wood), loosen the lock nut on each front foot with a wrench. Screw the foot in or out to raise or lower that corner, then lower the machine and check with the level again. Repeat until it’s level and doesn’t rock.
Warning: Keep fingers out from under the machine while it’s tilted. Use a block of wood as a prop, not your hand.
- 5
Tighten the lock nuts
Once the machine is level, tighten each lock nut up against the body of the washer. Loose lock nuts let the feet slowly turn during spinning, which is why a machine that was level can start shaking again weeks later. Some rear feet are self-adjusting; tilt the machine forward slightly and set it down to let them settle.
- 6
Add anti-vibration pads if needed
Rubber pads or cups under each foot help grip slippery tile and absorb some vibration. They won’t fix an unbalanced machine, but they reduce walking and noise on hard floors. Recheck the level after fitting them, since they add height.
- 7
Assess the floor
If the floor bounces when you step near the machine, it will amplify vibration. On wooden floors, a sheet of thick plywood under the washer can spread the load. On sloping or uneven surfaces, make sure the feet, not a wedge or piece of wood, are doing the leveling.
- 8
Check the suspension
With the machine empty and unplugged, push down on the top-load drum or the front-load drum edge and let go. It should bounce once and settle. If it keeps bouncing, knocks against the cabinet or sags to one side, the shock absorbers, springs or suspension rods may be worn. Replacement is possible on many models with the right parts, but it involves removing panels with sharp edges.
Warning: Sheet-metal panel edges inside washers can be very sharp. Wear gloves if you open the cabinet.
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How to check it's fixed
- The machine doesn’t rock when you press on each corner
- A spirit level reads level front to back and side to side
- A full spin cycle runs without banging or walking
- The unbalanced-load code no longer appears
When to stop and call a professional
- Loud grinding, scraping or metal-on-metal noise during spin, which can point to a failing drum bearing
- The drum is visibly loose, cracked or wobbles by hand
- You smell burning or rubber when the machine spins
- Shaking continues after leveling, balancing and checking the shipping bolts
- The machine trips the breaker or the control board shows repeated error codes
How to prevent it
- Load the drum evenly and avoid washing a single heavy item alone.
- Check the level and tighten lock nuts every few months.
- Don’t overload the machine beyond its rated capacity.
- Keep the shipping bolts and refit them before moving the washer.
Frequently asked questions
Is it normal for a washing machine to shake a little?
Some vibration during the final spin is normal, especially on high spin speeds. It shouldn’t bang, move across the floor or make things rattle off nearby shelves. If it does, something needs adjusting.
Why is my brand-new washer shaking so badly?
The most likely reason is that the shipping bolts are still in the back panel. They lock the drum for transport and must be removed before the first wash. Check your manual for their location and remove them with the machine unplugged.
Can a shaking washer damage itself?
Yes. Constant heavy vibration wears out suspension parts and bearings faster, can loosen hose connections and may damage the floor or nearby cabinets. It’s worth fixing promptly rather than living with it.
Do anti-vibration pads really work?
They help on hard, slippery floors by stopping the machine from walking and by absorbing some noise. They can’t fix an unbalanced load, bad leveling or worn suspension, so fix those first and use pads as an extra.
Is a stacked washer and dryer safe if the washer shakes?
Heavy shaking with a dryer stacked on top is a real concern. Make sure the manufacturer’s stacking kit is installed and the washer is perfectly level. If the stack still sways, stop using it until the cause is fixed.
This guide is general information, not professional advice. Homes differ, so follow your product manuals and local codes. If anything looks different from what's described, or you feel unsure, stop and call a qualified professional. In an emergency, leave the area and call your local emergency number.
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